September 20, 2023 – Of Ego and Sound at the Karnak and Luxor Temples

“Why do you know so much about our history?” asked my elderly guide for the Karnak and Luxor Temples.

“I don’t! There’s so much I don’t know yet that’s why you have to tell me more.”

“Well, you know more than anyone I’ve ever guided. When I ask you something you are able to answer.”

“Maybe it’s Naguib Mahfouz. He made different layers of Egypt’s history come alive for me — from the Pharaonic times up to the revolution.”

“Mahfouz?! You read Naguib Mahfouz?! This is my first time as a guide that I have met someone who reads Naguib Mahfouz! You know there’s a museum and a coffee shop in Cairo…” He trailed off when he saw me nodding, shook his head, and smiled in disbelief.

And there I was thinking how he’d be in for a pleasant surprise if he meets my friends and my book club!

After a brief silence, “Are you sure history is not part of your work?”

“It should be part of everyone’s work.”

“I think you are a genius.”

And just like that, friends. I have been promoted to genius status. I love Egypt. 😂

I did get one answer wrong, and the correct answer fascinates me as a musician. When he asked what the gigantic columns in the Hypostle Halls of the Karnak and Luxor Temples were for, I answered, “Ego.” Haha!

Apparently it’s for sound! The priests used it as amplifiers for their chants so that their voices would resonate far and beyond the temples!

I stand corrected. Now I know that the columns are for sound… and ego. Haha! But shhh… don’t tell him.

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